We have now left the protected waters of the Athabasca in Jasper National Park and have moved into the foothills of Alberta. I sit writing this installment under a clear blue sky at a place called Entrance Ranch operated by a fabulous man of Norwegian descent named Rocky Notnes to which we owe a great deal of thanks. Rocky has been very kind in allowing us to use his ranch as a base of operations for a few days and we even had a chance to go on a horseback trail ride along the banks of the Athabasca.

Over the past several days, much has happened. At times it has been a hair-raising adventure as Schaun and I canoed the whitewater reaches in Jasper National Park. It has also been peaceful reflective solitude sitting on the banks of the river watching the sun retreat. And, it has certainly been emotional and spiritual — and we still have 85% of the trip to go!

I have been privy to a host of some of the finest people I've ever met. From expert whitewater paddlers, environmentalists, and First Nations, to business owners, educators, and fellow travelers. These people have all taken time out of their busy lives to share in this journey and give their time to help this river. I am tremendously thankful to each of them and humbled by their commitment to water.

Last night one of the most remarkable things happened. Near Rocky's Ranch, lives an Ojibwe elder whose family managed to escape the horrors of the residential schools by hiding out in the woods. As a result this non-treaty elder carries traditions and stories that have remained in tact and unaltered for thousands of years.

This is very rare and it was an honour to be in his presence. First Nations people travel from all over North America to listen to this man's teachings (including a group who walked from Ontario — what a journey that must have been!). From this man and his students, we received a blessing and prayer. Words cannot describe the feelings last night over the beating of the drum and hypnotic chanting of the Travelers Song, blessing our journey and wishing us safe travels. I am rejuvenated to continue. "Migwetch" thank you.